you also need headroom like if you NEED 25w of power you should use a 50wpc amp so that your not clipping on bass peaks and musical peaks. This has alot to do with you speakers sensitivity an the amount of volume and space your hoping to gain/fill. So more than likely operating it with two usual type subs would still leave it sounding thin. If you design an integrated system, it is a no brainer to engineer it this way, and I bet Harry Kloss would have seen it right away.
AVID MAC CORE AUDIO MANUAL
The instruction manual says the front facing speakers can be powered with as little as 10 watts per channel. In a usual HT set up with a crossover at 80 Hz the tuning peaks of impedance of the mains kicks in at that point, so the receiver is relieved of very little power with the usual sub crossover points. What does save receiver amp power and stress to small bass mids, though is to let a larger speaker and amp handle the diffraction compensation. This really is not so to all intense and purposes. We hear a lot about subs off loading receivers and drivers.
AVID MAC CORE AUDIO DRIVER
So if you work that out, that is a lot of power the receiver has to provide and the 6.5" driver handle. Step response starts at 6 db per octave at 600 Hz for that speaker based on dimensions. And it gives you control of diffraction compensation on a room by room basis which is optimal. The reason is that the best way of off loading a bass mid driver and a receiver. It would be logical that the 10" driver at least carries the step response correction for the forward facing speakers. This tells me that the 10" driver is handling more than the sub LFE signal. In addition to a control for the sub level, there is a bass blend. Now the instruction manual says the left right mains setting of a receiver has to be set to large. However the connections are to the left right speaker terminals and a sub out to sub in, with another RCA audio cable linking the subs. I know thats a lot of info so thanks for your time and any advice is appreciated.Ĭlick to expand.I had a good look at this yesterday. HSU (just heard accolades from this forum) 8" 10" or 12" powered sub, crossover, dont know much about radiator design (active vs passive) and what would be optimal for my usage.
Im looking for tight, clean, punchy bass. Use is primarily TV, Movies, Video Games not so much music and parties anymore getting old blows. I dont have the time or means (tools) to mess around with them myself (pulling apart the cabinetry etc) so if you were me would you get a new sub or pay to get 5+ year old speakers fixed? Seems like itd be an obvious answer. Im just guessing, but I think it could cost me upwards of around $500 to get them fixed. The mids and tweets are fine so Im keeping them for the time being, but I dont have any bass. And while Ive replaced fuses on car audio amps before this looks a bit more difficult. Im not exactly sure what happened, if the fuse blew or what. I never got around to replacing them due to financial constraints. I remember a very loud buzzing sound from the left one while it was plugged in, then it just completely died.
AVID MAC CORE AUDIO SERIES
Maybe about 5 years ago I bought the Cambridge Soundworks Newton Series T500 home theater surround system would have hyperlinked but "no go" says Mr Admin.Īnyway, about a year after owning them and blasting the stereo at one of my former residences the subs blew.
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